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Remiss

I know I'm behind - I owe emails and posts and comments and all kinds of other things to all kinds of people. I've been crashing on some work deadlines; tragically, when the choice is between blogging and, well, eating, my hand is forced to indulge the flesh first.

Anyway -

Slowly but surely, it's coming together. I'm quite pleased with it; the only thing I don't feel good about is the inability to match the pattern across sleeve cap and body. I don't sew, so I don't know how that kind of thing is generally handled, but I just don't see any way to get a large-scale pattern with a large, clear diagonal to match between a straight edge (armscye) and a bell-curved one (sleeve cap). Would it look better with a line of gold at the join, as at the base of the collar? Or should I just get over it already, so I can be done with this project, this albatross, this millstone?

A fun suprise later today - cross my heart, hope to die, needle in my eye, etc etc.

Edit: looking at the photo, I realize that I pinned the sleeve to the wrong side for the shoot. The slit should fall at the outside wrist, not inside - where is my brain lately?

Comments

Your sweater is drop dead gorgeous and your dress form is magnificent. I must invest in one. I sewed, making all my clothing, from age 13 until I was in my late 30's. Then, purchasing items on sale became less expensive than making them. Also, I no longer liked being tied to my machine. I prefer knitting now, which is so portable. I admire your ability and fortitude in creating works of art that you wear. I have never been that brazen--using the term in a very positive way!

I was just thinking while looking at the picture: that's interesting, the slit is in the front. I thought it would be somewhere else. Then i read on... funny.
it looks beautiful though.

This is why I read your blog everyday, that is amazing! I think a thin line of gold at arm seam would probably look great, but I'm torn because it already looks great! Looking forward to the surprise!

Fantastic. It looks ethereal, timeless, some other synonym... I suggest for the gold welt between the sleeve and body that you make a little icord in gold and pin it there to see what it would look like. That way you get good idea of what it would look like without time investement! I suggest trying it with oatmeal too, that way you would get a repeat of that colour and maybe integrate it better in the jacket? just a thought

Good job !
I thought the slit in the sleeve was maybe on the top......and figured it was another new idea of yours......
I think you could probably match the sleeve shoulder to the body pattern.....IF you plan before hand and possibly adjust the armhole of the body ( I am thinking more in terms of sewing then knitting ) and then the sleeve and work the rest around that.......I think as an
after thought it might not be possible.......

Cíao until later.......when I will be back for the surprise....
From wet .... yes, it's raining...the first time since Sept.2005......Monsoon season has finally arrived !....... overcast and cool -61 F- Mexico City.....
Angelika

Lovely, Eunny, simply lovely. As always, I am looking forward to the next update on the Norwegian jacket.

Wowzazz!!!! That is awesome!!! I love it. Who cares about the armhole. It looks great like that. Still hoping that you would do something for men. :L

Ah. I can breathe again (alright, slight exaggeration). That is a stunning jacket, it really is. I can understand your annoyance about the pattern matching on sleeve and body; I lay odds it is possible to do it, but only by a phenomenal amount of calculation and diligent attention to gauge, and that would work for one size, one knitter. I honestly don't think it's necessary. You notice it because you pay so much attention to detail, but there comes a point when time should be spent living rather than knitting. Try the icord; it's an easy way to see whether a gold band would help, or whether it adds too much detail, makes it too military-ish.

I hesitate to mention this, but looking at the jacket in its almost-entirety I think the oatmeal 'skirt' might just be fractionally too plain, too different from the fabulously ornate blue and gold above it. But it's difficult to judge from a photo because the colour isn't true and, of course tastes differ (and I don't design clothes!). What would it look like if the gold band on the front continued down onto the oatmeal?

I think a gold line at the sleeve cap would be beautiful, but as it is now, the subtlety of the color choices minimizes any jarring of the eye at the join. I wouldn't fret over it too much unless you're going to lose your mind while wearing it because of the mismatch. It would be a shame to get it all made and then put it on, frown, take it off and have to revamp the sleeve.

If I were knitting this jacket(not that I could, since I'm scared to try steeking), I'd make the bottom the same color as the background on top. I agree with the other Sarah that the oatmeal doesn't seem to fit very well. Otherwise, it's gorgeous!

i don't think you can make them match exactly, because they're 2 curves.

what i can't tell, is that in sewing you will usually match the pattern (vertically) by placing the start of the armhole on the same vertical place in the pattern as the start of the sleeve cap. it looks like yours may do that or is close (not sure), but what this does is it allows the pattern to read at the same place vertically throughtout the whole piece.

cheap RTW will often skip this step (saves fabric) and it drives me crazy!

oh, and for now i LOVE the idea of the gold band at the join. but it's so hard to know until things are put together.

The jacket is simply breathtaking. So well-thought-out and so carefully executed. In pictures, one could almost be fooled into thinking it has been carefully tailored out of some ornate fabric. I think a band of gold at the arm might be too much (although as per other commenters, you've got nothing to lose by trying it out with icord), and I have to disagree with those who aren't feeling the oatmeal color at the bottom. That little 'plain' flare is one of my favorite details and, I think, keeps the whole thing looking more modern and less costumey.

Oh la la! You MUST sell this pattern!!! I NEED this pattern! I love to knit Fair Isle, but haven't been able to find something I would wear (I knit Fair Isle for my Diva). This is something I would love to wear!

No pressure of course! ;-)

It's looking absolutely fabulous (especially on that fancy-schmancy dress form!) I thought that the slit in front was deliberate--the hand delicately emerging as the sleeve bells down to cup the wrist. Um. But the back will look good, too!

If the unmatching pattern from body to sleeve is really bothering you, what about a line of contrast-stitching along the sleeve cap. (Similar to the way you broke up the Argyle along the side seam in your vest?) Then it would look deliberate, would size nicely to different knitters, and you'd have an effect that couldn't be duplicated in the brocade this almost looks like...

Not that I'm suggesting reknitting that sleeve, oh no!

Can't wait to hear the surprise!

In sewing, one tries to align the major visual elements. If you had kept to the higher constrast original colors, the clash between the sleeve and bodice pattern elements would be more obvious. You did say that there is more contrast in real life, that the camera masks some of the hue differential in the yarns. So, does it make the gold or the blue stand out more? Do a positive/negative space comparison. When you squint, is the diagonal separating bar more marked than the star motif?

If you align the top element, does it totally mess up the other elements' placement in the sleeve? What is more important, a clean visual line in the transition from bodice to sleeve, or a nice tidy element at the cuff?

Would it work to diminish the sleeve cap motifs as you did in the side front "darts" or would that distort the fabric too much?

I wouldn't add trim because I think it will disrupt the visual line of your shoulders and emphasize the broken elements in the transition from bodice to sleeve.

I agree with Cara about the oatmeal flare being excellent as is. Beautiful work!

I like it the way it is. I agree with the others that matching a pattern on the curves won't work. You would have to adjust the pattern in a way to fool the eye. I don't think I would like the gold band around the armsceye, I just don't think that is where you want to draw attention.

It's beautiful.

If matching the entire cap is problematic, focus on getting the front pattern to match where it seems most prominent (it looks like it does to me, or would, assuming the sleeve were on the correct side).

I don't know about piping the seam. Would it draw attention to any real or imagined pattern mismatch?

(And the surprise... it's a book deal, right? It's gotta be a book deal.)

Absolutely stunning work!!

I have sewn a number of plaid blouses and robes, and have always taken great care to match the pattern on side seams, pocket details, etc. The sleeve cap is impossible to match to the shoulder, however, mainly because it is a larger surface than the top of the shoulder. On the finished garment, this doesn't turn out to be a problem (or look like sloppy work), but putting a band at the shoulder would emphasize that area, where I think you want to de-emphasize it.

As long as the overall pattern orientation of the body and sleeve match, it will look fine.

Personally, I think the jacket looks absolutely lovely, even now. I wouldn't add a line of trim between the armscye and sleeve -- as said before, it would emphasize the break between motifs. Besides, the area where the sleeve joins the torso is a fairly high-movement one; the break won't be as noticeable as one would think, because of all the movement and the resulting shadows that will occur in that area.

I love the structure of the jacket. And don't forget -- an albatross is good luck, until you shoot it down!

I love the jacket, very snazzy.
Don't worry about matching the pattern at the cap of the sleeve, like others have said it is impossible. One thing that sewing patterns do is have match points where you cut your pieces to corresponding areas of the fabric and mark them with notches. Then when you put the garment together you put the match notches together and fudge between notch points. I think as long as you match the blue stripish area to the body front and the sleeve the eye will percieve a pattern match.
Again, gorgeous jacket!

Wauw, really breathtaking! I do hope you'll offer this pattern up for sale! I'm again offering to be a test knitter, just like with the socks, I really, really don't mind! :D

Anyway, My opinion of the sleeves is that I wouldn't add anything extra at all. I know some mentionned a gold line between the sleeve and the body (I didn't read all the comments though) but I wouldn't do that if it would make it just abit to complicated. I don't think it's really annoying the way it is.

The way I would try to match up the patterns is knitting the sleeve from the top down instead of the other way around, but I'm guessing it wouldn't be easy. Hmm, difficult.

But it still looks more then great!!!

Angela (http://myblog.de/angela/3) managed to match her sleeves to the sweater nicely. She explained she'd started decreases for the sholder shaping on the sleeves 2 cm after those of the shaping of the armholes on the body. She had a totally different pattern going, though, so I don't know if that would help in your case. Gorgeous, gorgeous anyway!!

In matching sleeves to garments, there are two main considerations: as mentioned in other posts, the front and sleeve are matched at a point about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way from the top of the sleeve cap to the bottom of the armscye (one matches the pattern at the seamline). In addition, the center line of the sleeve itself is also typically placed over a strong vertical line of design in the fabric (imagine viewing the garment from the side). This can sometimes be an iterative process, particularly with complex or uneven fabric designs.

Generally speaking and in fitted garments, the garment back and sleeve do not match when the two areas noted above are matched. Very much as in computer graphics, one takes advantage of human perception in creating visual illusions. Depending on the geometry of the garment and the fabric, adjustments to the general rules often need to be made, with the compromise being done by eye.

Since you are generating the pattern of the fabric, you are potentially able to juggle motif sizes and placements once the overall pattern measurements have been made.

I agree that the gold line about the sleeve/garment seam could give an impression of a uniform and wonder whether a thin blue line might help to tone down the mismatch unobtrusively. It is interesting to consider the martial impression with the historic background of the design and recall the contrast between the Vikings of old and the quiet Norwegian society today.

It's elegant work.

Cheers

I like the sleeve the way it is. I think the pattern is ornate enough that unless you're right on top of it, you won't even notice that the pattern doesn't match exactly. And I think the gold line would be distracting and draw attention to the edges of the shoulder, which might not be as flattering.

I always match a pattern at the bottom of the armhole, then let the sleeve cap fall where it may. A taller, narrower sleeve cap will match most of the way up and a wider one only matches for a short distance.

I think an extra gold line at the sleeve would be too busy and distract from the all-over pattern.

It's just stunning. Seriously.

How about a narrow curved caplet in oatmeal between the shoulder and the top of the sleeve to separate the patterns and to let the oatmeal be not so all-alone at the bottom??? (This shape is still reminding me of something in some famous painting, I just can't think which..)

,This morning I did not know how I felt about a gold colored accent around the sleeve cap....
Just got back from a lunch meeting at one of those very old down town Mexico City hotels....
The employees all wore muted blue or wine red uniforms with a mustard or gold band around the shoulder, where the sleeve is set in.........and now I must say that I would leave the shoulder alone.
People will look at the jacket and be so stunned, that no one will notice that the pattern does not match......now I am off to look for the surprise....
Saludos,
Angelika

if you have not started the other sleeve, perhaps you could try starting the sleep from the top then work it down to the wrist. That way you have better control over how to match the sleeve to the body (patterns). For example if the arm-hole with 1/2 a pattern, then the sleeve could start with the 2nd half of the pattern(I hope my explaination is clear). But make sure you have allowance for seems.

2nd suggestion is, if you are thinking of knitting this jacket all over again, you might want to think knitting the whole jacket in one piece (body and sleeves). That would be the most logical way to knit with this kind of pattern. Even with sewing, this jacket is a nightmare.

Cindy

I thought that slit looked a little weird! :) It's funny you are calling this a millstone, as it would probably take me weeks and weeks (and weeks) to finish it, myself. Looking awesome!

Wow! What a great looking piece. It just gets better and better as days go by! The gold around the collar might not be a bad idea. It would lend a very military-like feel to the tight shaping. But it's also gorgeous on its own, as is. I just love the overall shape of it, it sends me over the moon!

Stunning. Just stunning.
As for your brain - why don't you tell us?

A fantastic piece. You are one amazing knitter.

I think the best seaming method is the Japanese crochet method. It's very easy to work and easy the undo if you don't like the result. Just neatly crochet chain stitches along the armhole line and the sleeve cap line.

So you're getting mixed messages on if it's possible to match the sleeve cap. The truth is, you can *kinda* do it, a little. So, just don't. Don't put a band there, either. Just don't worry about it: yours isn't that sort of pattern, designed to match from the start.

Obviously if you wanted to, you could frog the cap and conjure up some sort of pattern segue. If it's going to bother you that there is no matching, I say go that route. Perfectionists rule!

PS I love the oatmeal. It's interesting and elegant.

I agree with Sylvia and Isabel...no gold piping at the sleeve cap. If I were sewing this I wouldn't want the eye drawn to the sleeve cap but to the overall composition. This makes that feature standout rather than drawing the eye to the front of the jacket. Just my opinion of course. It is truly lovely, Eunny and it has been incredible reading about your trials and successes with this beautiful piece.

It's stunning! Completely and totally amazing. If you're not happy with the sleeve joining the body, I think the gold "piping" would server you well.

Wow!
I have to chime in with the Sarahs about the contrast of the lighter base with the rest of the piece. It seems a bit too light?

Unbelievably beautiful! I hope you'll submit the design somewhere.

As to the sleeve cap, it seems that you have two options:
1. Line up the patterns vertically, just as you would if you were sewing. (There are other alignments, but this one is generally used, as I understand it, because then you get the most alignment bang for your buck with an allover pattern.)

2. Do some math. If you want it to line up the whole way, you can take advantage of the fact that you're creating the pattern with the fabric, rather than using a pre-made pattern. Essentially, you can distort the pattern by mapping it from a plane onto the curved shoulder shape so that it matches. (Think about the pattern as light from a flashlight, pointed at the shoulder so that it lines up with the pattern on the body.) It won't be the same pattern, exactly, but depending on the horizontal depth of the sleeve cap, it might not come off too visually different as it blends into the rest of the sleeve.
(I'm not sure if you're a math geek, Eunny, so if you're interested, drop me a line.)

It looks great (sleeve slit on inside or oustide!) I think no band at the arm - it would draw too much attention. The pattern is big enough that I think it not matching is not a huge deal, and the colors are subtle enough that it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb that it doesn't match (to me anyway) - if you did something like a black/white it may be more glaring. It is beautiful.

When you sew and want to match stripes or other patterns, you use the notches in the pattern or the armsecye to match the design. To translate this into knitting, the design at the point where you make the first bindoffs for the sleeve and the body should match. If the sleeve cap is smooth and not poofed or gathered, the design should match the rest of the way up the arm.

I just wanted to say once again that you are very talented! This looks amazing and it's not even finished yet. I could real see this selling for a lot of money in a fine retail store. What patients you have!

The sweater is beautiful! I'm relieved to hear that the sleeve was on the wrong side, though, as I really thought the slit should be on the other side. Whew!

As a seamstress, I agree that there isn't any way to match the patterns up that would be really satisfactory and a slight mismatch would probably be more visually annoying than no attempt at all. Anything you might add on top would only draw more attention to the spot and, as other commenters have noted, take you more in the direction of the costumy feel that you don't want. It's already got a very baroque look to it.
I too am a little mystified by the bottom section. I guess it looks to me like a backing, as though the top layer had been cut away. Might a blue and gold border help to tie it in more?
On the whole, a stunner. Your skill and patience put most of us to shame

A line of gold might help disguise things but it might make the jacket look like it belongs to an esoteric band uniform too. Maybe that's a good thing?

I'm in awe of your beautiful work. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise.

Inside, outside, backwards -- that is a gorgeous garment no matter what.

Beautiful! Absolutely Beautiful Sweater! I wouldn't worry about the pattern not matching perfectly. Step back a few feet or even across the room to really evaluate how it looks. Please, please say you are going to write this pattern up for sale?

Hi Eunny. One quick question - how did you do your armholes? I am "redoing" a fair isle pattern and I badly want set-in sleeves, so I'd love to know what worked (or didn't) for you. I'm guessing either steeking or just a simple splitting of front and back and working in decreases.

I think it's a lovely piece. I wouldn't worry much about the pattern matching (although I know I would. The old "do as I say", I suppose) because it does have that tailored feeling about it. I don't know if I would go with a gold detail at the cap. I think I'd leave it as is, although I would attach the sleeve on the other side.
If you find your brain, please let me know where it is that they like to go to hide.

um, i'd say your brain was exhausted from coming up with such a beautiful design! be proud of yourself! At least you only pinned it on that way.

Beautiful!! I laughed afterwards about your sleeve, I confess I didn't notice it at first. I love the oatmeal bottom, definitely adds class to the jacket. I can't wait to see it all done! Thanks for being so inspiring!

well i dont know much about it all but i know that is beautiful!

So pretty, where did you learn to design like this?

Oh, it's so gorgeous!!! I like it very much!!! :)

Wow. That's beautiful!

you might be interested in looking at some couture sewing books. it's amazing what can be done with lots of little pins and steam. your jacket is stunning.

That is one of the most elegant garments I have ever seen. Bravo.

I am in awe. In fact I am speechless, which never happens.

Hello Eunny,
I just love this piece. I was thinking that maybe you can print onto paper or cloth the motif, pin it in place and mark how different the lines are on the cap of the sleeve and the shoulder section. Then you will be able to see if there is a way to alter the cap pattern without getting the sleeve out of align with the rest of the piece.

Wow, impressive.

Eunny,

The jacket is stunning and the dress form shows it off beautifully. I think it was a sound investment. As for the scare with the steeking, I think I'd have had to lie down for a while to regather my nerve.

Holy cow! As Stephanie said, 'nuff said. Gorgeous, gorgeous...

Your sweater is gorgeous. I would opt for the gold i-cord between sleeve and body. I designed a patterned sweater this winter with contrasting patterns on sleeves and body, and debated for a long time about whether or not to add the i-cord; and when I did, it just looked so much sharper and better that I laughed at myself for dithering. But as others have said, try making one, pin it on, and see what you think.

oh my g-d! that is one amazing sweater/jacket! brilliant!

Your jacket is amazing. Such detail and fine work, and I really like the darts. I agree with the majority of comments that say no gold at the sleeve-to-body seam.
Equally, I'd prefer no oatmeal at the bottom as it seems to not belong to the rest of the work, almost as though it is unfinished. But I'm sure when you're done, it will be perfect.

Stunning. Absolutely stunning. Please say you'll be writing up a pattern for this!

Dear Heart,
I have logged in to your site seveeral time this weekend just to stare in amazement at that jacket. My mind boggles. I go fix breakfast, then come back and goggle in awe. Then I go to the store. When I come home, I have to look again. It's difficult to believe that a flesh and blood woman DID all that!! You have repeatedly blown my socks off. Bravo! May you find much prosperity and unending joy!

Hi Eunny -- The jacket's gorgeous. If you're feeling inspired at some point, your fans might appreciate a longer riff on colorwork and shaping via darts. My vote for the shoulder join is for a thin gold i-cord. I'd discourage any ripping and revising at this point. However, for future projects, you might check out "Sweaters from Camp." The sweater featured on the cover has set-in sleeves, and the pattern (p. 158) explains how to make them work. Best wishes.

WHat a truly stunning jacket!
I have to agree and disaaree with soem of the sewing-skilled here. When sewing a with a plaid it IS possible to match all points, the shoulder seams, the side-seam, the under arm to the side seam and the pattern across the bicep/sleeve cap to the patern repeat across the front and back - BUT all of this depends on garment fit and size of pattern repeat - sometimes, when you try to force a match, it does not work as smoothly and it is more obvious that it does not match. WHen you let it fly and go for just the shoulders and the side seams - those are the most obvious and sometimes the sleeve will follow suit.

why ruin a good thing?- it it looks fantastic as it is ! i am jaelaous of your mad-skills!
marietta

Eunny, it's fantastic! I must have this pattern. Please, please write it up! Btw, I really love the slit being on top. I guess it wouldn't be as practical to leave it like that, but I like the idea anyway.

Your jacket is magnificent!

Where are your new posts??? I live to read your blog!

I'd like to cast my vote for no gold around the sleeve-body seam. Either way, though, it is an amazing jacket!

I just love the jacket you are working on, please please please please please
make the pattern available for us all to buy, and to be honest, anything else you have designed that you're not selling a pattern for, I just love your work and check your blog three or four times a week. I'm sure there are a lot of people out there with the same sentiments as me.

I don't know about remiss but I do know that we-miss you.
Seriously, you've got to come back, I've been reduced to terrible puns. I hope you absence is a reflection of wonderful and exciting goings on or at least some well deserved rest.

Eunny are you ok? I hope so--we miss you!

I think a line of gold would look great. And it would stop you fretting about the pattern not matching every time you wore it. Which you would.

I'd rather you ate than entertained us :)

My vote is for no gold line, no trying to match the pattern. Don't fret too much about it--wabi-sabi and all that. In the meantime, I'm still anxious for the surprise!

I don't care if you slap that sleeve on upside-down - it's still nothing but stunning!!!

I'm a little behind - but I just picked up the new issue of Interweave Knits yesterday and saw your big mention in there for being such a great source of lace-related help. Just wanted to say congratulations!! (And I couldn't agree more with IK on this one!)

To the excellent comments by the skilled seamstresses above I would just add that if you make the adjustment to accomodate the pattern match at the armscye and re-knit the sleeve, you most likely have to sacrifice the neat, 'diamond point' beginning at the cuff; you would need to cast on at a point several rows north or south of where you did initially, just as one moves a pattern piece over a piece of fabric where the printed design is "fixed".

Honestly, that is breathtaking. Beautiful design, lovely detail, classy cut. Amazing.

oh.. I love the jacket, you are so talented. Are you gonna sale the pattern? I definiately would like to have it.

Absolutely gorgeous jacket. You are just *incredibly* talented. I think that a little gold at the join of sleeve and body would look very nice and beautifully finished, as would a thin gold strip at the waist. I can't wait to see it on you!

Hi Eunny....wow... great knit, love it and hope for the pattern.

As someone who used to sew a lot, I'd just like to let you know that matching sleeves on a pattern like this to the body part of the jacket is almost impossible. It works to an extent with stripes, checks and very small patterns, but with a pattern like you are using, sorry, no can do. The best thing would be to plan the pattern on the sleeves to be centered so that the center of the pattern/sleeve cap matches with the shoulder seam.

While this doesn't solve the problem, I hope it helped.

Many greetings from sunny Spain,

Bettina

Oh wow, I love it so much! I can't wait for that pattern!

(I've been busy and then offline for awhile, hence my late comment)

Oh, and I would give advice on the matching the pattern on the sleeve to the body, but I think what I would have said has already been said. What great advice everyone has given!



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