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Majoring in Lace - Part IV

Introduction; Shawl ConstructionYarn Choices; Needle Choices; Gauge: Chart Reading 101The Structure of Lace; Role of the YO; Role of the Decrease; Movements in Lace Knitting • Provisional and Invisible Cast Ons; Hard Cast Ons; Circular Beginnings

Casting On For Lace

One of the most curious things about lace is the goal of having no real beginning and no real end. There might be a handy little parable lurking in there somewhere - shawl as ancestral blood, shawl as distinguished lifetime - but we're here to talk about knitting, not self-indulgent flights of metaphorical fancy. Onward!

The main problem with casting on for lace is the difference in elasiticity between the cast on edge and the rest of the fabric. Stitches worked with any openwork pattern will always stretch more than the same number worked in stockinette or garter, and the traditional long-tail cast on is too firm to accomodate the extra stretch during blocking. One way or another, the issue needs to be addressed for any lace project that will undergo a serious dressing.

**Note: The movment(s) of each technique are presented as a simple graphic and as a series of photos. The diagram should show you exactly how the yarn should sit and the directions of the movements - the photos a sense of the process. In the diagrams, working yarns are purple and the waste yarns pink, while in the photos the working yarns are blue and the waste yarns white. For clarity, I'm showing the techniques with a smooth cotton that shows the stitches well**

Invisible Cast Ons

Many traditional Shetland and Orenburg shawls are cleverly constructed to avoid a cast-on row altogether. An invisible, or provisional, cast on method is used to begin a given section of knitting, and the live stitches held to later be picked up or grafted.

All invisible cast ons are comparable in finished effect - basically, they all expose the purl bumps of a row and make them live stitches. The first and third methods shown here use the working yarn itself for the first row on the needles (what would ordinarily be the cast on row), while the second method works into waste yarn stitches on the needle. For the second method, I usually work that first row as a wrong side foundation row, turn, and then start the pattern.

Otherwise, the method you choose will depend only on personal preference.

Invisible Cast On

My favorite invisible cast-on is ridiculously simple - it amounts to making a series of yarn overs in a figure-eight around both the needle and a "holder," usually a bit of waste string. Using a smooth, fairly thick waste yarn for the foundation will go a long way towards keeping the stitches from twisting around the needle, and eventually make picking up the stitches much easier.

    1) Anchor your working yarn to the needle by making a slip knot. Hold the needle in your right hand, anchoring the tail of the working yarn and one end of the waste yarn out of the way. Tension and spread the yarns with your left hand, with the waste yarn nearer you than the working yarn - you might find it convenient to tension the waste around your thumb and the working yarn around your index finger. Dip the needle under the waste yarn...

    2) Grab the working yarn from the back, bring it under the waste yarn in front, and bring the needle back to position to make one stitch.

    3) Now, tilt the needle back, pick up the working yarn from over the waste yarn, and bring the needle back to position to make the second stitch.

    Repeat these steps until the required number of stitches, including the slip knot, have been cast on (when casting on an odd number of stitches, give the working yarn a twist around the waste yarn before turning and working the first row). Pull the waste yarn straight, and arrange the stitches on the needle carefully - as you knit, take care to straighten out and arrange any YOs that have started to twist around each other.

    When it comes time to pick up the stitches from the cast on row, transfer the stitches on the waste yarn, one by one, to a spare needle. Undo the slip knot at the beginning of the row.

Invisible Crochet Cast On I

Crochet cast on methods are very popular, though I generally find them a little too demanding for my absent-minded ways - I nearly always have a bit of waste string in a pocket or buried in my purse, but I hardly ever remember to carry a crochet hook with me. Work crochet cast-ons with a hook similar in size to the diameter of your knitting needle (though size isn't crucial), and use a smooth cotton or other slippery yarn (this is crucial, unless you're a glutton for tinking punishment).

Version I is chained directly onto the knitting needle, creating a foundation row of waste yarn. The work is knitted onto this foundation row, leaving live stitches when the row is later unraveled.

    1) Make a slip knot with the waste yarn and place it on a crochet hook held in your right hand, with the working end of the waste yarn running behind the knitting needle in your left.

    2) Catch the yarn with the hook from in front of the needle, and pull it through the loop on the hook to cast on one stitch.

    3) Move the working end of the waste yarn back behind the needle, and repeat steps 2-3 to cast on the required number of stitches.

    4) When all the stitches have been chained onto the knitting needle, cut your waste yarn, pass the end through the last loop on the hook, and pull closed (not too tightly - you'll need to undo it later). Tie a knot in that end of the yarn to mark the end you will unravel from, and start working the knitting, treating the loops of waste yarn on the needle as your cast on row

    Pick up the stitches by undoing the last loop of the crochet (marked by the knotted tail) and tugging on the tail to pop the chain open, one stitch at a time. Transfer the live stitches to a knitting needle as they are freed.

    The crochet chain will only "unzip" in one direction - from the last chain worked to the first.

Invisible Crochet Cast On II

Version II should also be worked with a smooth, clean waste yarn and a hook about the same diameter as the knitting needle. You may wish to use waste yarn of fingering or heavier weight to show the loops clearly - picking up the wrong loop will keep the chain from unzipping later.

Despite its slight fiddliness, this is my preferred crochet cast con - the method is simple and sensible, without the awkwardness of manipulating the yarn around too much. From a seperate crocheted chain, the working yarn is pulled through the reverse-side bumps. The chain is later unzipped to expose live stitches.

    1) Crochet a waste yarn chain of as many or more stitches as you want to cast on (more is better). Cut your yarn, pull it through the last loop, and knot that tail to mark the end you'll start unraveling from later. Consider the front and back of the chain - the front presents the familiar nested V shapes, while the back shows a series of bumps straddling the loops.

    2) Starting from the knotted end, pass the tip of a knitting needle through the first bump (and only that strand - take care not to grab any other strand or ply of the chain with the needle). Catch a strand of working yarn with it, and pull it through the bump to cast on one stitch.

    3) Pick up a second stitch in the same way.

    4) And continue until all the stitches have been cast on. If the bumps become too tight to work into, it's fine to skip one or two chains - you'll be glad to have worked more chains than strictly necessary.

    Expose the live stitches in the same way as in Crochet Method I - undo the last loop of the crochet, and tug to expose the stitches one by one. Tranfer them to a needle as they are freed.

Regular Cast Ons

Sometimes, of course, a hard cast on edge is unavoidable. Many stoles and rectangular shawls are knit in one piece, starting at one cast on short edge and worked toward the other. Triangular shawls, too, are occasionally worked from the outer (long) edges towards the top center, starting from a very long cast on edge and decreasing steadily towards the endpoint.

A long-tail cast on may be used, but it should be cast on very loosely - around two or three needles, even. However, I tend to think the sturdiness of the edge (no matter how loose) can be jarring in a very delicate piece. One of the following is probably a better bet.

Backwards Loop Cast On

This is the very simplest cast on a knitter can do. It works beautifully in lace, because there are hardly any extra loops or twists - the edge is as delicate as a single thickness of yarn, and will even stretch farther than the fabric. This can be a disadvantage - an edge made in this way should be pinned carefully to avoid flare.

The twisted loop may be placed onto the needle with either a forward or backwards twist.

    It is simply a matter of how the loop lies around the creepy disembodied thumb, and how it's placed on the needle. I tend to think that version A looks better when the next row is a knit row, and version B when the first row is a purl row.

Lace Cast On

This is a peculiar cast on, not overly popular or well-known, but very useful. It forms a loopy, open edge, sturdier than a backwards loop, but far more elastic than the long-tail. Worked loosely, this cast on is suitable for any lace project that requires a real beginning row.

The movements are basically that of a cable cast on, except the new stitches are drawn through the last stitch, rather than between the last two stitches.

    1) Make a slip knot, and place it on the left needle. Pass the right needle through the back of the slip knot, catch the working end of the yarn, and pull it through. Without twisting the loop, place it on the left-hand needle.

    2) Continue in this way, working into the front of each loop (for next row knit) or the back of each loop (for next row purled). The finished edge is appropriately lacey, but sturdy and firm.

Circular Beginnings

Many square and circular shawls, of course, are knit entirely in the round. They start from a tiny center point of less than ten stitches joined in a circle, and rapidly grow (increased throughout for circular shawls, and increased only at corners for square shawls).

There are a couple problems with the usual methods of casting on and joining circular rounds with such small numbers: for one thing, it would be impossible to close the center hole perfectly; for another, it's very very hard to cast on only one or two stitches onto four DPNs and avoid twisting something. The popular methods of starting circular shawls try to address these issues.

The surest sign that the apocolypse is here? After casting on, I heartily reccommend Magic Loop for dealing with those first 4, 6, 8 stitches. Though I hate the feel of Magic Loop, it's infinitely easier to keep those stitches from slipping and twisting when there are only two needles to worry about.

Emily Ocker's Circular Beginning

Very popular, this method produces a very strong, very sturdy center with a distinct "bellybutton." Basically stitches of single crochet worked over double thickness of looped yarn, the foundation stitches are somewhat raised - when blocked, it's hardly noticeable, but I don't especially care for the final effect.

    1) Make a loop of yarn with the working end in front, pass the crochet hook through it from front to back (under the tail), grab the working end of the yarn, and pull it through the loop.

    2) Grab the yarn once more, and pull it through the loop on the hook. This makes one stitch of single crochet, and one stitch casted on.

    3) Leaving the last loop on the hook, repeat until the right number of stitches have been made, always passing the hook through the loop and under the tail.

    4) Transfer the stitches on the crochet hook to DPNs or to a circular, pull the tail of the loop to close it, and join.

Lighter Circular Beginning

While the last beginning's heaviness comes from working the foundation stitches over a double strand of yarn, this circular beginning is much lighter. It's actually an invisible cast on (the first thing this post went over) worked over the looped tail of the working yarn rather than a waste strand.

    1) Form a large loop of the yarn with the working end on top. Keep the loop open with the fingers of the left hand; tension the working end of the yarn with the left index finger or thumb.

    2) Put the knitting needle through the loop, catch the working end, and pull it through (under) the loop. Return the needle to position for one stitch casted on.

    Continue to cast on stitches exactly as you would in an invisible cast on, first grabbing the working end from under the "waste yarn" loop and then over. If you are casting on an even number of stitches, stop one short of the total.

    Pull the loop snug by tugging on the free tail and distribute the stitches. If an even number of stitches is required, YO before joining and knitting the first round.

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Did I miss anything?

All posts in this series:

Comments

I find that when working the long tail cast on for lace (which I always do over two needles), it is often trickier to pick up or graft stitches along the cast on edge due to the sturediness. This can be countered somewhat by picking up only one strand (instead of the usual 2 that would form a "v"), though this only works if the project has one visible side as it leaves a bit more a ridge then the other regualr cat ons do. (though it is my favorite for socks)

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Also, it would be nice to mention somewhere that knitting in the end of the yarn in the first row is an easy way to secure the end, espcially with a very lacey project which can be harder to secure the ends in. However, it is important to remember to pull the end as tight as you want it (but not too tight or it can pucker or gap weirdly) in the circular cast on, especially EO's, which is already thicker.

And can I jsut say that you have some of the best pictures of my favorite techinques!

Eunny, you are just brilliant! The skill, knowledge and passion you have for knitting is wonderful. Your lace posts are so informative and inspiring, I want to ditch the jumper (sweater) I'm knitting so I can cast on for another lace project.
Cheers
Claire

This one I'm bookmarking. Thanks a ton for the illustrations .

The lace cast on looks an awful lot like the knitted cast on - is it simply a matter of not twisting the stitch before putting it on the L needle?

Thanks again - brilliant.

Thank you so much for this excellent demonstration of lace cast ons. Your pictures and writing are extremely clear!
Again, thank you so very much.

Shelly

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I've struggled with the invisible cast on and the Emily Ocker method. Your explanations and pictures are perfect. I'm going to cast on NOW!

Wow - that was a spectacularly clear and thorough explanation of cast-ons!! The Emily Ocker method has been haunting me for years - now I think I could master it, but of course I'll do the one you like better. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise with us.

Another helpful tutorial with beautiful photographs and illustrations. This is truly inspiring. I'm sure that many knitters who have been afraid to try lace will pick up their needles and go for it! Thank you.

The only thing *I* can think of that you might want to have mentioned would be to add under 'circular beginnings' the TAB method - where you use waste yarn to knit a few rows flat, then join on your first row of main yarn - later you remove the waste yarn and use the tail of the main yarn to pull together those first sitches.

I have never even considered knitting lace before - I was never interested. But your passion for it and your lovely explanations are starting to inspire me!

Wow, what a great cast on tutorial - bookmarked! Thanks.

One other circular beginning, mentioned in Martha Waterman's Knitted Lace Shawls, is to just cast on and work the first few rows back and forth, until you have a reasonable number of stitches to put on your DPNs--about an inch-worth of knitting. Then join the round, carry on from there, and sew the inch-long seam with the tail from your cast-on. Easy!

Fabulously entertaining and informative as always! Could you please explain the difference between the "lace cast on" and the "knitted cast on"? Thanks!

Wow, thank you so much for this tutorial! I was just casting on for the Print O' the wave shawl and struggling with the invisible cast-on, here you came and saved the day! Thanks!

I've never used an invisible cast-on, but reading about it has always confused me until now. It's just a figure-8; why have I never come across that before? So simple! As always, an amazing tutorial.

This is was a detailed and very thorough explanation of lace cast-ons! I'm sure this has been answered before, but what camera do you use to get such detailed and clear pictures?

When are you going to write a book??

Thanks for the info on crocheted cast-ons - I both crochet and knit, and have gotten some funny looks from fellow knitters when I've pulled out my crochet hook to cast-on for my lace projects - some people seem to think that the combination is abnormal! It's so easy! I'm glad you shared it with all of us.

Thanks!

Exceptional technical review! Brava!

I agree with Jacq that you should think about putting together a book - your patterns and explanatory series are stellar.

Wish I'd waited to read this before I started my own print o'the wave adaptation last week....

Love the creepy disembodied thumb. I just tried the Emily Ocker cast-on yesterday, and while I did get it to work, it did look lumpy and bellybutton-ish to me. I'll have to try your lighter circular cast-on.

i am new to your blog and am so impressed! and inspired and in awe - your explanations are so clear and concise along with your pictures. I lok forward to learning more form you - and when i am off yarn and pattern prohibition, i will buy your vest pattern!

Thank you so much!..i've been searching for detailed pictures and explanation of the invisible crochet cast on II...i'm ready to cast on the FBS now..YAYYYY!!!...THANK YOU! =D

There's a book at the end of this all, right? May I have mine autographed?

You have put together the easiest to follow compendium of lace knitting I've ever seen. I started my first lace six months ago and got lost. Frogged it. Figured lace just wasn't for me.

Your pictures and explanations have given me the courage to go back and try it again...I joined the Diamond Fantasy Shawl KAL...and I keep referring back here for reassurance. You make me believe I can do it!

Thanks...

You are absolutely amazing. Thanks for another wonderful tutorial.

Thanks for another very informative post! I always learn something new (or in most cases, lots of new things).

You are absolutely fabulous for doing all of this. This takes a lot of time and effort. Thanks for this tutorial. This one will before for even more things other than lace knitting.

Once again, I am in absolute awe at your outstanding tutorials. I worship the very air you breathe.......

Marvelous tutorial! Bookmarked. Thank you.

wow. thank you. you are amazing.

Maybe I'm missing something but isn't the lace cast on just like the regular knitted cast on?

Nope, you didn't miss anything. Everything is PERFECT!!

These lessons are incredibly helpful! They've answered some questions I've had, and taught me a good few things, too! You rock, Eunny!

than's for all !
good knitting

Thank you so much for taking the time to write down such wonderful information! Lace is my favorite knitting.

Girl, you should publish a book! My mom bought me the Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Needlework years ago. It's great, but not near as clear as your instructions. I admire you!

Great tutorial - but then you do always explain so well. If I could add, though, that I've found the Turkish cast-on (which is similar to the figure 8) very useful when starting circular shawls, though you do need to start on 2 circs when doing it.

Excellent instructional writing. The Best. I have a little trick I use when starting circular lace. For the first few rounds, when there are only 2 sts per needle to start with, I use toothpicks, the longer ones they use to skewer sandwiches. I consider them to be 2 mm dpn's. They are not slick, so they won't slip out, and they are lightweight. I have used wooden glove needles, but found them still too slippery for the finest weight of yarns. Thanks for your fine work.

Thank you!

I have never understood how to actually do the backward loop cast-on -- they always just show the loops on the needle, and I couldn't figure out how to get them there! So thanks so much!

One of these days I'm going to make the Flared Lace Smoke Ring - I even bought the same yarn you used. What cast-on did you use for it?

I do have a couple of questions...

As someone else noted, what you call the lace cast-on sounds an awful lot like the knitted cast-on. Is it the same, and you're just using an alternate term for it, or is it somehow different from the knitted cast-on?

Also, on the lighter circular cast-on you were discussing, I don't understand why you leave the last stitch off if you're needing an even number of stitches. Could you explain what makes an even number any different than an odd number for this?

And thank you so much for all your work putting together these great tutorials. You're more thorough on every subject than any single book I've ever seen.

Thanks SO MUCH for your great tutorial and the tons of work you put in it!
Though I´m a knitter for over twenty years, I´ve never knitted lace (imagine!) but I plan to do so in summer - a triangular shawl for my wedding :-) And now I´m well prepared for this one.

This is amazing! The pictures are so helpful. I've had trouble understanding the circular cast on before but your explanation is very clear. Thank you so much!

Wow! Great tutorial. It never occured to me that the invisible cast on was essentially the same as the figure-8 that I use to start all of my socks! Thanks!

Thanks for the great tutorial, Eunny! I know where I have to look at when I'm knitting lace now. Actually, you are the one who tempted me to buy some lace yarns ;D

This is fabulous! I'm currently working on a lace piece, and your series has been very helpful.

You know, I've thanked you before for the lace series you're doing but! I'll thank you again, and again and.... You already have made my lace knitting better! (I'm going to rip some of my lace WIPs and start over!) Thanks! so, so much.

This is the most concise and comprehensive tutorial I have ever read about the many ways to cast on. I'm pretty sure you have improved all my future knitting tonight. Very nice work, I can not thank you enough.

Once again - Eunny ROCKS! You have absolutely inspired me to take on lace, Thank you x 10...

another in the series of How did we ever knit without Eunny?

Here's a tip for those in your aquaintance (like me) who can't handle both yarns at once in the invisible cast on. Tie or clothespin the waste yarn to something stable and tension it while you weave the knitting yarn onto it.

Eunny, great info as always. I thank you for taking so much time to share you amazing talent. I am printing the installments to keep as reference material.

I've started a small lace project...can't wait to apply all I've learned to future projects!

Thanks so much for these tutorials. I'm enjoying them so much.

Thank you for the great tutorials!

What a wonderful resource! And beautiful photos! This is incredibly useful and I will definitely be back next time I knit lace--thank you so much!

Hi Eunny,
I've been lurking for a while here, reading your blog and enjoying it wholeheartedly! However, I have to leave a comment today to thank you for your lace tutorials. I have started my first lace project about three times now and kept finding the cast-on edge to be too tight - until this helpful post. The backwards loop cast on was just what I needed! Thanks!

Thank you so much. The pictures combine with the photos to make the instructions crystal clear. Very impressive.

Question! I was using the Crochet Method 1 (it was the easiest for me) I casted on 10 loops, and knitted for a few inches, then undid my waste yarn and picked up stitches. I only had 9 to pick up. I tried again, and had 9. Where did I loose my stitch and how do I do this when the pattern says to cast on 8 stitches. Do I cast on 9, and do a k2tog that first row? (so I'll have 8 to pick up later) Thanks!

Wow--that was fantastic!!!! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

--Judy

I'm really enjoying the series; can't wait for the next installment! Thanks for making the effort to put this together!

You might want to mention that you can do an invisible cast-on replacing the waste yarn with the cable of a circular needle. Then, when you go to knit in the other direction, you can simply begin knitting. (Knitting Help has a good tutorial on how to do this).

Cheerio!

Eunny, you have the most amazing knitting blog out there! I have just recently discovered it, and you have become my instant idol and hero! :) Thank you for the lace school, I plan to study every last detail of it, and become a lace master. ;) Although I've been knitting for forever, I'm fairly new to lace, and have a lot to learn.

I am supposed to be knitting socks for everybody on my Christmas list but repeated visits to your lace tutorials are prompting me to abandon socks and begin your Print O the Wave shawl. I hope all is well with you and that pleasant diversions are all that have prevented more blog posts. I love following your projects and f.o.s. Happy knitting!

Oh no where did Eunny go? :-( it's been almost 2 weeks! I'm deprived.

I am also Eunny-deprived!

Thanks so much for this! I've been wanting to try lace for awhile but have been too wimpy to give it a shot. This tutorial inspired me and gave me the confidence to order some yarn to make a meditation shawl for my boyfriend's mom. Thanks!

Eunny where are you. I miss reading your blog. It's my favorite.

Another lurker missing Eunny. I'm starting to worry about you. Hope you're ok and just tangled up in some yarn..

Hope all is well....miss your wonderful posts.

This whole tutorial series has been so fabulous, I couldn't help but mention it a second time in the Pointy Sticks podcast! Great work - so informative - and the photos are *amazing!*

Eunny, I have SO enjoyed all these lessons you've put together! Your graphic design abilities are fabulous, everything is so clear and the graphics are wonderful. I recently downloaded your vest pattern and am excited to get started on it. I've never used steeks before so this is going to be a great lesson. Keep up the good work!!!

Hey Eunny- you OK? we're starting to worry!

Hi Eunny, You motivated me to begin a shawl which has been in my stash for almost a year. I'm not very experienced with lace, and have had to rely on my lifelines twice already, but I am 68 ever increasing rows into the thing and working up to 160 rows. Anyway, thanks so much for the gift you give us all with your tutorials.

Laura

add me to the list of worried readers....are you ok??

Where art thou, Eunny? Your reader dost miss thou!

Does anyone know Eunny in real life to confirm she's alright?

Eunny? Let us know you're okay....

Eunny....we seriously miss you!! Did you catch something?

another entry for the major wow dept. sure wish i had know about that invisible cast on when i was making butterfly.

p.s. glad you're back! your new template design looks very cool.

Thanks so much for the lessons!!!

Very nice series! Well thought out and extremely professionally illustrated for highest degree of understanding ease.

Slightly discouraged that the 2 needle co that is NOT simply a larger knit loop is not included. By far my favorite. Elastic enough if you do a mobius that splits the initial co into every other stitch, you DO NOT have elasticity problems (simply use the same size needle to hold open the bottom "knot" of the stitch as the stitch itself - vary needle size to vary elasticity). Essentially the longtail with one extra loop-de-doop. The ridge even disappears in most cases into the elastic pull of the stitches (no obvious line of stitches).

I've made a left-handed version of this page, since I needed this great info but in LH form. It's in a Word .doc file. Please let me know if anyone wants it.

Thank you so much for this very helpful, well explained lesson for lace cast-ons.

There is one thing I am missing, though. It's probably obvious but I'm a "lace cast-on" newbie.

After I take out the waste yarn and pick up the stitches below, what do I do with those stitches?

This is for flat knitting.

Oh silly me! I figured it out!

Every one of these technique tutorials is so incredibly insightful, thorough, and clear - I sure hope someone is soon going to be paying you a decent - if not much better than decent - wage to publish your material properly!

Note to potential publishers: Eunny is a guaranteed hit!

The backloop cast-on can be made firmer by simply twisting twice before sliding it onto the needle.
The knitted on (lace) cast on -with or without a twist-- can also be done with the wrap up over the back of the right needle, rather than up over the front, which many find makes it easier to knit the first row.
VERY nice tutorial!

great site!!thanks for the service http://spanking-pictures.info

Thank you for the illustrations! The pictures are very clear. Now I learnt a few more ways to cast on.

came by this way via craftster. Thank you very much for such detailed tutorials. I have never thought about lace knitting before (too difficult, too fiddly, too many toos) but I'm definately thinking of taking a thwack at it, thanks to your detailed tutorials.

Still I can find realy useful informations - isn`t it great?! Go on http://fetish-medical.male-spanking.info/

If you add to this series, you should say something about cast offs for lace. I am on the verge of researching the best cast off to mirror the lace cast on. Bind off loosely really just doesn't cut it.

Thanks for all the info.

Eunny this is one of the best tutorials I have ever seen! For anything! Ever!

I've been thinking that lace was far too difficult for me to tackle other than slavishly following a pattern but you have shown me the light!

Gosh you are fabulous!

Are there going to be any more installments? I'd love to know more about casting off and adding edgings.

Thanks again, you've made it almost tempting to try and make my own lace pattern (like I really need another challenge right now!)

It was a great pleasure for me to visit and enjoy your site. Keep it running!

Eunny, you are the EZ of lace!

I've always wanted to try designing my own lace, but I've never been able to find any book or site that explains just how the yarn-overs and decreases work together. I was all set to try and tough it out on my own, and then I found your explanations (and the graphs! Let's not forget those marvelous graphs!) and while I'm not sure I completely understand it all, it'll sure make my experiments go a whole lot quicker! The graphs overlaying the swatches were really helpful too.

I know I'm gushing, but it's not very often I come across a pattern, much less a whole website, that makes me instantly want to pick up my needles and hibernate for a week (or 4) while I do nothing but knit. But everything here makes me want to track down my local yarn stores and fork out $300 on a whole bunch of somethings gossamer and soft.

Now if only I hadn't put all my yarn in storage when I moved… (Yeah, I know. That was dumb.)

I have not found any mystake - great http://cfnmfever.info/

I am surprised - interesting comments http://www10.asphost4free.com/femdom/

I have been dreaming of starting a lace project. Read all the lessons, dreamed, schemed, and planned! Did join the yahoo group and got more info. Finally purchased Knitpicks lace weight, just waiting by the mailbox. I'll be visiting this page for help and encouragment. I'll purchase the book too! Thanks for the inspiration.

I have been dreaming of starting a lace project. Read all the lessons, dreamed, schemed, and planned! Did join the yahoo group and got more info. Finally purchased Knitpicks lace weight, just waiting by the mailbox. I'll be visiting this page for help and encouragment. I'll purchase the book too! Thanks for the inspiration.

thank you so very much for the instructions on this cast on. I have been trying to find it,for a while, and your method, is the very best illistration ,I have found. my thanks again sharon

I've never tried lace knitting before, and a friend recently gave me a birthday present of lace-weight yarn and a pattern. Thanks for the info on cast-on!! (You really should write a book!)

traveled here from KnitU and will return for your excellent photos, drawings, text. quite impressive! thanks, naomi

Fantastic instructions!! Here's another alternate step: When using CROCHETED PROVISIONAL CAST-ON, it makes it a bit easier to pull those first row stitches through the chain if you use a long crochet hook called an afghan hook (in the same size as the knitting needle you'll use for the project). Loops are left on the afghan hook for the first row, then either knit directly off it or transfer the stitches to a circular needle (or double point if it's a small piece).

AND, EUNNY, it is possible to make that "crocheted" chain without a crochet hook, just by pulling loops through with your fingers!

I have also seen other instructions that recommend using a larger crochet hook to make the chain, then placing the back loops rom tthat chain directly onto the knitting needle.

THANKS FOR THE WONDERFUL TUTORIALS!

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I've been afraid to try an intricate lace project, but since reading your clear explanations and seeing the pictures, I think I can give it a try! Thank you so much for the effort you have put into this.

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This tutorial is wonderful! It's worth money and you made it for free! You might consider adding one of those little donation buttons. I would have used it!

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