as always, is cheap. Stuffed with fennel fronds, onion, smashed garlic and rosemary, and wrapped up in pancetta, it can be passably good-looking, too. The pancetta fuses with the fish's skin in the oven to form a lovely crispy sheet hiding deeply flavorful, moist flesh.
Gratins are great - this one was constructed of wilted fennel and cipollini onions layered with slices of parsnip. Dose with some heavy cream, bake weighted - sprinkle with buttered crumbs and run under the broiler for a couple minutes before serving - and you'll congratulate yourself all evening.