Absolutely Perfect Roast Chicken...

is the easiest thing in the world; the sort of good-smelling, eyepleasing instant comfort everyone ought to learn to make blindfolded with one hand behind his back. Sheathed in crackling, salty skin, it becomes the base of exactly the sort of unpretentious dinner it would do us all good to eat, humbly, from time to time.

I use Judy Rogers' method from the Zuni Cafe Cookbook - the simplest, most foolproof technique I've ever read of - a small chicken, roasted in a hot oven on both faces, with only the bird's skin trusted to provide plenty of lubrication.